AANHPI Heritage Month: The famous meal when Obama met Bourdain

Totally comfortable in a working -lass restaurant, then-President Barack Obama and cultural
commentator Anthony Bourdain enjoy a simple meal in Hanoi.

The image remains etched in the collective memory of both Vietnam and America: Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain, two global icons sitting on low plastic stools in a cramped, fluorescent-lit noodle shop in Hanoi. 

When President Obama joined food writer Bourdain for a bowl of bún chả in 2016, it wasn’t just a staged photo op for CNN’s Parts Unknown. It was a masterclass in culinary diplomacy and a homecoming of sorts for a president whose palate was shaped far from the White House.

There is nothing to make the restaurant stand out from its surroundings. Located at 24 Lê Văn Hưu in Hanoi's Hai Ba Trung District, Bún Chả Hương Liên is a no-frills, family-run establishment. Up the stairs with other members of my small tour group to the small dining room there is a picture of Obama and Bourdain hanging over the table where they shared a simple Vietnamese meal on May 23, 2016. 

I sat there, trying to find a comfortable position on the low plastic stool.  There I enjoyed a steaming bowl of pho, perspiring a bit because there was no air-conditioning but the windows remained open to the warm tropical air letting the busy street noise filter into the cramped room. I noted the photograph of the President and the food writer/philosopher extraordinaire.

That original table, along with their plates and beer bottles, is now famously preserved in a glass case — a "museum piece" that Bourdain dryly admitted he wasn't sure how to feel about.

While the world marveled at the sight of a sitting US President navigating a crowded street stall, Bourdain noted that Obama didn’t need a tutorial. There was no fumbling with the chopsticks and no hesitation at the sight of the heap of fresh herbs. 

Bourdain later remarked on the President's effortless technique, stating, "He’s the only guest I’ve ever had on the show who enjoyed the food, handled the chopsticks, and drank the beer from the bottle."

This comfort wasn’t an act; it was muscle memory. Growing up in Hawaii and spending formative years in Indonesia, Obama didn’t just "eat" Asian food—he lived it. From the savory comfort of Hawaiian plate lunches to the spicy street stalls of Jakarta, the President was raised in the "umami" belt. 

Bourdain, reflecting on the meal, said, "I believe he had been looking forward to this for a long time. It was a bowl of cold rice noodles and grilled pork in a broth with some fermented fish sauce—all the things he grew up with." He famously added that Obama "handled the sticky, hard-to-separate noodles like a professional."

For the locals in Hanoi, seeing the leader of the free world treat their national dish with the respect of a regular was transformative. Obama wasn't there to colonize the menu; he was there to enjoy a meal he fundamentally understood. 

This moment signaled a seismic shift in U.S.-Vietnam relations. On May 23, 2016—the same day the meal was filmed—Obama officially announced the full lifting of the 50-year-old arms embargo on Vietnam. While the policy change was strategic, the meal was the emotional anchor that humanized the "former enemy" through the simple act of breaking bread.

Today, tourists and locals alike flock to the shop to order the "Combo Obama." For approximately 120,000 VND ($5.00 USD), you get the exact set they shared: a bowl of special bún chả, a fried seafood roll, and a cold Hanoi beer. It remains a testament to the idea that the best way to understand the world is to sit down, grab a blue plastic stool, and eat like a local.

Through the years, I've forgotten what kind of pho I ordered at Bún Chả Hương Liên except that it was hot and delicious. To the staff there, I was just another foreigner trying the local fare. It was about as close as I could get to Obama and Bourdain, two men I admired from afar. A simple meal with so much meaning.

Afterwards, I exited into the busy street -- scooters zooming by, car horns honking, dodging the traffic, both motorized and pedestrian, and the buzz of conversations of Vietnamese passers-by.  I boarded the small tour bus still trying to memorize the experience of my  tiny taste of history. 

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This Sunday I'm reading: A WWI hero; fighting sexual stereotypes of Asian American men and women

Here I am again, in my quiet back yard, sitting on my deck reading in the shade of a big-ol' tree that I planted decades ago. It's early morning before the breezes pick up but you can tell it's going to be a warm day. It's quiet except for the Vietnamese music being played by neighbor as he enjoys his back yard. 

Funny, I'm reading a piece about a line in Full Metal Jacket (1987) by Stanley Kubrick, that has become a rallying point for Asian American women about the Yellow Fever held by some American men's way they view AAPI women. "Me love you long time." is one of the lingering after-effects of the Vietnam War where Americans viewed the Vietnamese people as "others" in their own country. By calling them "gooks," (a word originating from the Philippine American War) thus making them less than human, it became easier to kill them: men, women, elderly, children.

Thuc Nguyen writes in Flaunt Magazine, "'Me love you long time:' Sticks around a long, long time," a phrase from the movie uttered by a Vietnamese prostitute to an American GI.  

"Over time, the phrase has entered various areas of pop culture, school yards and the music and apparel industries, often called out by people who know that it's racist and sexist. It's used to reduce Asian and Asian American women to sex objects. "

A scene from 'Full Metal Jacket.'

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The last line in Stevie Wonder's song “Black Man,” asks: “Who was the soldier of Company G who won high honors for his courage and heroism in World War I?" The answer is Lau Sing Kee. He was an American hero from World War I, but he was also mocked as a “Chinese boy” in his California home town. He was a civic leader, but he also became a convicted criminal for skirting anti-Chinese immigration laws. The New York Times has an article about this unsung (Until Stevie) war hero entitled: Overlooked No More: Lau Sing Kee, War Hero Jailed for Helping Immigrants."

Lau Sing KeeL from war hero to immigrants' advocate.

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"If you were an Asian guy, there was nothing out there to look up to. Nothing. Until Bruce Lee. It was like growing up in a dry, empty desert, then one day you walk over a hill ― and there’s the Pacific Ocean. That was Bruce. He was the ocean." -- KWONG LEE, Be Like Water

As an Asian guy, I took umbrage at the recent depiction of Bruce Lee in the Quentin Tarantino movie, Once Upon A Time in Hollywood.

Lee was not a perfect human being but he was one of very few role models for Asian Americans that wasn't weak, asexual and the "best friend" of the white lead role.

One screen and off, he defied the old stereotypes and spent a lifetime trying to change the image of Asian males. So when Tarantino presented him as arrogant, a punk, really and unable to convincingly beat an aging white stunt man, naturally Asian men were upset. Certainly, Tarantino could have achieved his cinematic point in some other creative way without taking down one of the few "heroes" of a generation of Asian American men.

Brittany Wong writes a thoughtful piece for HuffPost: "The Radical Way Bruce Lee Redefined Asian American Masculinity."

For those who are interested, here's my some of my own thoughts on the Legend.

In the movie, ' Way of The Dragon," Bruce Lee fights another martial arts legend, Chuck Norris.

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