Exhibit highlights AAPI fashion designers

A denim jacket designed by Shail Upadhya greets visitors at the fashion exhibit.

A new exhibit showcasing the Asian American designers in the world of fashion is on display at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

"Asian Americans in New York Fashion: Design, Labor, Innovation" celebrates the Asian American community’s diverse and often unheralded contributions to the fashion industry.

“With everything going on recently, we really didn’t want this exhibition to be a space where people were thinking about negatives,” co-curator Zoe Taylor told Women’s Wear Daily. “We wanted this to be a space for celebration, a space where people from the Asian American fashion community can come and see the actual faces of people who had been influential in the fashion industry. People who look like them and have made an impact.”

The Asian American community has faced discrimination and exploitation, leading to their under-recognition and invisibility in the fashion industry, especially in production and manufacturing. 

The fashion industry has taken a stand supporting the AAPI community in the wake of the surge in anti-Asian attacks.

In solidarity, the fashion industry is using its clout to stand up for the AAPI community. Brands like Valentino, Nike, and Adidas have been very outspoken in denouncing the violence and are donating proceeds to AAPI organizations.

This exhibition does not attempt to represent the entire Asian American experience; instead, it highlights the depth and variety of Asian American design through object-based analysis. The exhibition examines topics such as labor and process in addition to exploring design motivation.

Illustrations by Ruben Toledo.

The show is divided into two sections — one that explores fashion production, labor and the use of materials in the design process from the 1980s to the 2010s, and another that examines a variety of design narratives from the 1950s to the present.

Upon entering the show, visitors will find a 1997 illustration by Ruben Toledo titled, “The Tug of War Continues…” featuring drawings of Anna Sui, Vivienne Tam and Zang Toi physically supporting each other. While all three designers have been recognized by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, lesser known talents in the industry are also featured in the show.

Several garments in Asian Americans in New York Fashion: Design, Labor, Innovation embody visibility and success. A 1950s evening gown designed by Linda Kinoshita and worn by actress Lisa Kirk shows the history of Asian American designers beyond the late 20th century and their influence through styles worn by prominent clients. Kinoshita’s dress is the oldest piece in the exhibition and is an example of Asian Americans' historical presence as designers.

More recently, on display is the dress designed by Thakoon Panichgul and worn by Michelle Obama to the 2008 Democratic National Convention, creating unprecedented exposure for Panichgul who produced similar versions of Obama’s dress for the public. These pieces represent the important role Asian American designers have played in dressing influential American fashion icons and in crafting America’s fashion identity.

National Museum of History Online

Photos of Chinese American garment workers by Hervey Wang are part of the fashion exhibit.

For a deeper dive into the exhibit's theme, a virtual panel with Ping and the scholar Christina Moon is scheduled for March 10. Both creatives will share their own experiences as they discuss the impact of Asian Americans on the New York fashion industry.

Admission is free for the exhibition, which will be open Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from noon until 8 p.m. and on the weekend from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. through March 27.

EDITOR'S NOTE: For additional commentary, news and views from an AAPI perspective, follow me on Twitter @DioknoEd.