Asian American chefs "represent" at James Beard awards

Benchawan Jabthong Painter was one of four Thai chefs to win a Best Chef award.

More and more, the cuisines of Asia are opening the eyes and doors of American fine dining. Asian American chefs captured eight of the 12 Best Chef regional awards handed out in ceremonies in Chicago last week.

It was a big night June 5 for Asian American chefs but it was an exceptional event for Thailand. Four of the regional chef winners serve up Thai cuisine meaning they won one-third of the regional Best Chef awards.

FYI: The complete list of James Beard winners.

“It means a lot for me,” said Houston's Benchawan Jabthong Painter on the night of her win for her work at Street to Kitchen. Adorned in a black gown with a colorful shawl made by Thai designer Nata Fashion, she said: “I’m just the girl who grow up with a family business.”

“I always make sure … I feel like I’m back home again. This is the food that you get when you go to a friend’s house, not like a restaurant or business,” she said. “I want to show you how good my grandma cooks and how happy I feel when I try her food.” Now, she’s expanding her repertoire, building upon her made-to-order cooking experience of Thai street and comfort foods, and into the world of luxe-tasting menus, a deliberate and timed experience that requires each guest to be served multiple dishes at various times.

Kasama owners Tim Flores and Genie Kwon celebrate their James Beard Award. 

Tim Flores, chef/owners of Kasama of Chicago followed up its first-ever Michelin star award last year with a James Beard award, sometimes referred to as the Oscar of US food scene.

Flores and his wife, Genie Kwon, pointed to the impact their James Beard award may have on broader perceptions of Filipino cuisine. “To be recognized for cooking my mom’s food is insane,” said Flores as he accepted the award. 

Kasama functions as a cafe during the day as a showcase for Kwon’s pastries and a few savory items from Flores, such as a Filipino American version of an Italian beef combo using longanisa sausage and shaved adobo pork. At night, it turns into a fine dining establishment with a tasting menu highlighting Flores' culinary roots.

ELLEN YIN

Ellen Yin, of High Street Hospitality Group (Fork, a.kitchen + bar, High Street, and others), Philadelphia, PA was named an Outstanding Chef, an award for the chef who sets high culinary standards and has served as a positive example for other food professionals, while contributing positively to their broader community.

Yin has been a force in the Philadelphia culinary scene, cofounding the Sisterly Love Coalition to champion women in hospitality and leading relief efforts during the pandemic, as well as raising money for anti-Asian discrimination through the Wonton Project, inspired by her mother.

With partners, including chef Eli Kulp, Yin went on to open a.kitchen where she  continues her farm-to-table philosophy.

Margarita Manzke a Filipino American and co-owner of République, Los Angeles, was presented the James Beard award for Outstanding Hospitality, which is awarded to a restaurant, bar, or other food and drinking establishment that fosters a sense of hospitality among its customers and staff and that serves as a beacon for the community, and demonstrates consistent excellence in food, atmosphere, hospitality, and operations, while contributing positively to its broader community.

Walter and Margarita Manzke, who also operate restaurants in the Philippines and Sari Sari Store in Los Angeles' Downtown’s Grand Central Market, know that their new namesake restaurant is too expensive for most diners. They’re hoping to bridge those two perspectives by offering both luxury and relative value, at least with respect to the service provided and the scope of the products being used."

The "best chefs" in the 12 regions in the US are:

California 

• Justin Pichetrungsi, Anajak Thai, Sherman Oaks, CA 

Best Chef: Great Lakes (IL, IN, MI, OH) 

• Tim Flores and Genie Kwon, Kasama, Chicago, IL 

Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic (DC, DE, MD, NJ, PA, VA) 

• Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, Kalaya, Philadelphia, PA 

Best Chef: Midwest (IA, KS, MN, MO, NE, ND, SD, WI) 

• Itaru Nagano and Andrew Kroeger, Fairchild, Madison, WI 

Best Chef: Mountain (CO, ID, MT, UT, WY) 

• Kris Komori, KIN, Boise, ID 

TWITTER

Kris Komori brought the entire staff of KIN in Boise, Idaho to the Chicago awards.

Best Chef: New York State 

• Junghyun Park, Atomix, New York, NY 

Best Chef: Northeast (CT, MA, ME, NH, RI, VT) 

• Sherry Pocknett, Sly Fox Den Too, Charlestown, RI 

Best Chef: Northwest & Pacific (AK, HI, OR, WA) 

• Vince Nguyen, Berlu, Portland, OR 

Best Chef: South (AL, AR, FL, LA, MS, PR) 

• Natalia Vallejo, Cocina al Fondo, San Juan, PR Best Chef: Southeast (GA, KY, NC, SC, TN, WV) 

• Terry Koval, The Deer and the Dove, Decatur, GA 

Best Chef: Southwest (AZ, NM, NV, OK) 

• Andrew Black, Grey Sweater, Oklahoma City, OK 

Best Chef: Texas 

• Benchawan Jabthong Painter, Street to Kitchen, Houston, TX 

EDITOR'S NOTE: For additional commentary, news and views from an AANHPI perspective, follow @DioknoEd on Twitter or at his blog Views From the Edge.